Don't be square, overclock a rectangle instead!
You were interested in a £500 XP3000+ for £45 right? Then read on and I'll tell you where you can get one :D
If you make chips (the silicon type not the potato) then one of the ways to make them go faster is to make the pathways closer together (smaller process, i.e. AMD's 0.18u Palomino XP chip compared to the AMD's 0.13u Thoroughbred chip). The AMD XP Thoroughbred is a good example of this as you can buy both Palomino or Thoroughbred CPUs with the same GHz rating, so I thought it was worth pulling together some of the things I have read about how good one particular type of Thoroughbred chip can be if you want to squeeze some extra juice out of it. :D I have ignored the Barton in this posting because they are too expensive at the moment and the ability to pay less and get more performance appeals to me!
How do you know you have a Thoroughbred instead of a Palomino?
The outgoing 0.18u Palomino has a square cpu core. The newer 0.13u Thoroughbred has a rectangular core. The Throroughbred core has been issued in speeds right down to the XP1700+ (1.466GHz / 133FSB) and this slowest version is currently available for about £45.
AMD grade all of the silicon wafers used in the manufacture of their CPUs and obviously the purer wafers are destined for their high end processors. However, from time to time their stock levels mean that they find themselves short of lower graded silicon wafers and with a slower processor speed order to fill. So they use the high quality core originally destined for the 2800/3000+ CPUs to make a 1700+ CPU. Now it stands to reason that if you could get hold of one of these CPUs then you are likely to be able to overclock it by a fairly considerable amount :D And that is where knowing what the codes on the CPU mean comes in real handy. The trouble is that so few retailers actually differentiate betweeen the different codes, but if you find one that does then the CPU you are looking for is either a AMD XP1700 JIUHB or a AMD XP1700 AIUHB.. If you want to know what all of AMD codes are then have a look at AMD's CPU Code Guide which can be found here (http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/DownloadableAssets/Processor_Recognition_Rev02_ENG.pdf).
Hexus reviewed (http://www.hexus.net/review.php?review=536) one such high quality silicon 1700+ CPU, the AMD XP1700 JIUHB. They overclocked in three stages:
(1) Choose a higher multiplier:
Booting into a fresh Windows XP Pro installation they managed to get a stable running speed of 1869MHz (14 x 133.5FSB), all at a normal CPU voltage of 1.5v. That makes the £45 CPU faster than the XP2200.
(2) Raise the FSB:
Raising the FSB by 5MHz at a time, they got 2.130GHz (faster than an XP2600+ and still only using normal Vcore of 1.5v).
(3) Raise the Vcore:
They managed to get the normal XP1700 JIUHB CPU successfully booted into Windows at 2.305GHz / 200FSB / dual channel memory with 2-6-2-2 timings, all with just 1.65v CPU voltage, 1.7v chipset voltage, and 2.7v DDR voltage. That's faster than any CPU that AMD retail today.
£45 on an AMD XP1700 JIUHB is a heck of a sight cheaper than trying to buy a slower 2.167GHz XP3000+ Barton from a retailer for c.£500 or a 2.25GHz XP2800+ Thoroughbred for not a lot less! Note: You will need a good nForce2 mobo and low latency dual channel DDR RAM (I recommend Corsair) to allow you to realise all of the above increases, but it does reinforce the sense in overclocking to gain the extra performance rather than spending the extra cash. Using the above method Hexus got in excess of an extra 800Hz and made a 1700+ CPU go faster than any retail AMD CPU :D Not bad going, huh?
Me? I've bought one from here (http://www.cpucity.co.uk/acatalog/XP_CHIPS.html) and it is going into a test rig Real Soon NowTM.
But what are YOU going to do?
TL. 8)
Done that. Next!
You're justing me TL?
Buy one of these XP1700 OEM Thoroughbred cores JIUHB for £45, slap it on an nForce board and then..... what else, major levels of cooling or just a bog standard heatsink and fan for a XP300?
Give me more details, you have my attention as I was unfortunate enough to buy a 1600+ which does not come in the Thoroughbred version. And I was thinking about building a PC soon anyways.
Oh and I noticed on that web page you recommend:
XP2100 OEM Thoroughbred cores AIUHB for £75. Do you think the 2100 will overclock higher than thr 1700 or are they just using the same core quality and hence there would be no point in splashing out £30 more for the extra 400 AMD MHz?
:lol: 8)
Just bought a XP2200 thoroughbred does that mean i can get 4000+ :D
QuoteDone that. Next!
Me too. :D
i dont have any money
any one wanna buy me one :?:
no
QuoteYou're justing me TL?
No.
Let me get my caveat in :wink: I am just reporting what I have read and discussed with others - I am becoming increasingly interested in the o/c world and this is just something that I thought was worthy of sharing with you peeps. But if you go blow up or melt your components or entire system then it is YOUR fault not mine, OK? Caveat emptor applies. :onfire:
However, as my post said, I have not tried this particular o/c yet - but the sheer volume of source material out there in terms of commercial reviews, anecdotal evidence on o/c forums etc tells me that this can be done. Just read the Hexus review and that should tell you enough!
QuoteBuy one of these XP1700 OEM Thoroughbred cores JIUHB for £45, slap it on an nForce board and then..... what else, major levels of cooling or just a bog standard heatsink and fan for a XP300?
According to many o/c haunts, 2GHz overclocks are being regularly achieved with air cooling only. Obviously it is sensible to monitor your system temperatures as you overclock. If you have a hot room or a component laden and badly ventilated case then you will need more cooling than most! I have seen systems at 1.8GHz with cheap watercooling setups, right the way through to 3GHz+ systems on Prometias. 2GHz o/c is reported as very achieveable with good air cooling. But each system is different and you need to watch your own temperatures and take appropriate steps accordingly. According to the article the Hexus o/c results were on air cooling only - albeit with a big noisy Akasa cooling system stuck in there!
In addition, I read this afternoon that it is not just the nForce2 mobos that have done this o/c, however it apears to be the favourite - I am still researching this aspect of it though.
QuoteGive me more details, you have my attention as I was unfortunate enough to buy a 1600+ which does not come in the Thoroughbred version. And I was thinking about building a PC soon anyways. Oh and I noticed on that web page you recommend: XP2100 OEM Thoroughbred cores AIUHB for £75. Do you think the 2100 will overclock higher than thr 1700 or are they just using the same core quality and hence there would be no point in splashing out £30 more for the extra 400 AMD MHz?
Like you I have been looking at building test rigs for o/c purposes. My main interest is to try to get my knowledge of o/c to a level where my brain no longer thinks a Lian Li Prometia Mod kit is a crazy purchase :lol: I have only just come across this o/c information myself - in fact only days ago I bought a spare 2100 CPU from Smilo - but I have now bought a 1700 as well and will be playing with that first.
As for 'will a 2100 o/c any further than a 1700'.....well I am not a chip techie, but my understanding would say no it should not. The principle is that these 1700's are cheap because they are sold as and set to 1700 clock frequencies etc. BUT, and this is the crux of the matter, they are made using the exact same pathways and silicon wafers as the top of the range CPUs would have been. So in theory, all you need to do to make a 1700 into a 3000 is change the clock freq, multipliers and Vcore, and then find something to spend the other £450 on. BTW, £450 is almost exactly what an entire Prometia cooling system would cost - can see the logical path that my manic brain is trying to take my wallet down? So buying a 2100 CPU would just be wasting your money.
Hope this helps....
TL. 8)
QuoteJust bought a XP2200 thoroughbred does that mean i can get 4000+ :D
No, see my above explanation. :(
TL. 8)
QuoteQuoteJust bought a XP2200 thoroughbred does that mean i can get 4000+ :D
No, see my above explanation. :(
TL. 8)[/b]
Was just kiddin..
Im not into the overclocking thing as it makes very little difference to what im interested in. Not having a dig at anyone else doing it though ........just my personal feeling. :D
Cheers TL, I agree with you on the chances of o/c ing the 2100 any more than the 1700. They are the same chip, just set to a different clock rate.
I ordered one. I also quite fancied buying the Abit nForce mobo a few months ago as they came out so I think I will look into that one again.
Check this page out, one guy has done a nice bit of o/c on a 2100 chip and seems to get the same results as your reference got for the 1700.
http://www.pcclub.com/forum/messageview.cf...7&threadid=5688 (http://www.pcclub.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=27&threadid=5688)
I got a nice gfx card that can handle increased clock rates pretty well:
http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/engl...+Ti4200-8X+OTES (http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/english/pt_main_back.jsp?pPRODUCT_TYPE=Video+Card&pMODEL_NAME=Siluro+GF4+Ti4200-8X+OTES)
Check the close up by clicking on the box.
It has a pretty good cooling system and hardocp ( //www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MzYy ) have an o/c test clocking it beyond the Ti4600 rate and the gpu still running stable. It's around £120 ( //www.komplett.co.uk) , not a bad price for Ti4600 performance.
Quotei dont have any money
any one wanna buy me one :?:
No. You'll only break it.
tolerences is the name of the day.... FFS thats been the case since the day of valve amps, some valve amps were stonger some were weak. Nothing has changed, only the complexity has risen...... just wait till silicone is second to polymer chips! the day you get a 50Ghz chips and all the memory you ever wanted embedded into a credit card is something that is closer than you may imagine.
What I want is a way of identifying the chip while its mounted on my motherboar without having to remove the heatsink and goo just to read the serial number. PS anyone who answers that correctly get a cock up the ass from oooh about 10 million geeks worldwide :lol:
QuoteI got a nice gfx card that can handle increased clock rates pretty well: http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/engl...+Ti4200-8X+OTES (http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/english/pt_main_back.jsp?pPRODUCT_TYPE=Video+Card&pMODEL_NAME=Siluro+GF4+Ti4200-8X+OTES)
Check the close up by clicking on the box. It has a pretty good cooling system and hardocp ( //www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MzYy ) have an o/c test clocking it beyond the Ti4600 rate and the gpu still running stable. It's around £120 ( //www.komplett.co.uk) , not a bad price for Ti4600 performance.
Nice choice, quite a few of the 4200s o/c very very well - and if this one has been set up like it says it has, then you ought to be able to get some serious o/c work done on it :D
TL. 8)
QuoteWhat I want is a way of identifying the chip while its mounted on my motherboar without having to remove the heatsink and goo just to read the serial number.
Why have a CPU on a female pig?
I was just sizing up the bits and pieces needed run one of these babys and noticed that there are some heatsink/fan combos that use that icky sticky silver particle glue stuff, and some that use a handy clip like:
http://www.coolermaster.com.hk/product_det...1&product_id=12 (http://www.coolermaster.com.hk/product_detail.asp?lang=eng&at=boutique&category_id=1&product_id=12)
I assume this fella aint a bad choice? A bit more expensive than the clipless ones but you don't need to spend £10 on glue straight away, and I like quiet fans.
Also, I think the Abit nForce NF7-S V2.0 looks like a fine board for the job, I was considering this one anyway:
http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/engl...ODEL_NAME=NF7-S (http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/english/pt_main_back.jsp?pPRODUCT_TYPE=MotherBoard&pMODEL_NAME=NF7-S)
TL, Q: I checked the Corair DDR page but I haven't a clue what all these different DDR standards are and what is the best. I want 1GB probably in the form of 2 x 512MB DDR, any good explanatory pages you know of?
In fact this will be the first PC I build from scratch so if anyone has a good link to a nice basic setup page, I have upgraded almost everything apart from the CPU before so I'm not a complete n00b.
That Prometia thingy looks too mental still though. :lol: :D 8)
I've just ordered one of the abit motherboards last week, so hopefully it'll be here tomorrow. I'll let you know what it's like and whether id recommend buying it. :wink:
QuoteI was just sizing up the bits and pieces needed run one of these babys and noticed that there are some heatsink/fan combos that use that icky sticky silver particle glue stuff, and some that use a handy clip like:
http://www.coolermaster.com.hk/product_det...1&product_id=12 (http://www.coolermaster.com.hk/product_detail.asp?lang=eng&at=boutique&category_id=1&product_id=12)
I assume this fella aint a bad choice? A bit more expensive than the clipless ones but you don't need to spend £10 on glue straight away, and I like quiet fans.
(Apologies if I have misunderstood the question am about to teach you to suck eggs here)
ALWAYS use a high quality thermal paste between the CPU and the bottom plate of the heatsink, period. I use Artic Silver III (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Thermal_Materials_27.html), generally regarded as one of the premium thermal paste compounds. I prefer not to use any glue to connect my heatsink to my cpu - what happens when you want to upgrade or remove the cpu for some maintenance? The clips are easiest as you can refresh the pea-sized drop of thermal paste and re-seat the clip each time you want your CPU to be taken out and replaced.
QuoteAlso, I think the Abit nForce NF7-S V2.0 looks like a fine board for the job, I was considering this one anyway:
http://www.abit.com.tw/abitweb/webjsp/english/pt_main_back.jsp?pPRODUCT_TYPE=MotherBoard&pMODEL_NAME=NF7-S
This is one that I think will do a fine job, it is one of only a very few that allow almost total adjustment via ABIT's Softmenu.
QuoteTL, Q: I checked the Corair DDR page but I haven't a clue what all these different DDR standards are and what is the best. I want 1GB probably in the form of 2 x 512MB DDR, any good explanatory pages you know of?
Erm, no I don't actually :oops: However, I have been reading up a wee bit more on the RAM I want for this test rig. I currently run some XMS2700LL, but Corsair currently don't do any matched sticks of XMS3500LL (low latency), however OCZ do and that's what I think I am going to go for. You can find their 1Gb DDR PC-3500 Dual Channel EL kit here (http://www.shop4memory.com/products/ddr-ram.asp#pc3500). I'm not sure if I can stretch to 1GB myself (I need the money for an entirely 'cooler' purchase), but from the reviews I have read it has run at 500MHz at Vdimm 2.8v :wtf:
QuoteIn fact this will be the first PC I build from scratch so if anyone has a good link to a nice basic setup page, I have upgraded almost everything apart from the CPU before so I'm not a complete n00b.
Safety Tip: Do not turn the power on without the heatsink attached to the CPU. I only ever did that once, for just 3 seconds. It fried an Athlon XP in that time. :( But I'll never make the same mistake again :)
Bonus Tip: Get the biggest and best PSU you can fit into your case - if you are messing with voltages etc then you need something that can handle the increased load without breaking a sweat :D
QuoteThat Prometia thingy looks too mental still though. :lol: :D 8)
Momma says that "Mental is as mental does" :silly: Damn, I like the look of that Lian Li mod kit :crazyeyes:
TL. 8)
Ah, it's not glue its thermal paste :lol: Like Vindaloo :lol: Ok I will buy some of that stuff. Just pea sized drop you say, enough to sort of fill the space between CPU and sink?
But does that Coolmaster fellow look good or not? I amn't going for the Pro-whats it called thing (yet), and with a decent heatsink and fan that AUIAH chip should o/clock pretty well and stay cool, I hope? Any thoughts on fan choice? Good brands?
That RAM is outragously priced!!! I may rethink my strategy and go for a good but not so expensive model.
So you are going for the Prometia then? I thought you might, I will see if the missus gets a new job this month and think about it. It does look the business, but hardly the portable option eh! :lol:
I will make sure I keep the power off until the rig is built, and buy a nice meaty PSU.
This is going to be fun. Cheers TL.
Pea sized works just fine :D And right where you said. AS3 will go 'melt in' during the first 200 hours or so and by the end of that time is pretty much set like a glue and perfectly flush on the two surfaces - sufficient to hold the heatsink upside down, but not so strong you can't get it off. But they do a thermal glue as well - if you use the glue you will never get the heatsink off the cpu! :lol: AS3 is mean to to give an extra 3-5 degrees extra cooling compared to AS2 :thumbsup:
The one Hexus used in their review was the Akasa Silver Mountain (Fan Speed 4,600 RPM, Air Flow 23 CFM and Noise 33 dBA). The Coolermaster you picked out does Fan Speed 3000 RPM and only 14.13 CFM, so you may not get the same results as they did - 9CFM is quite a big drop off. What about the Thermalright SLK-800 (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Thermalright_120.html) instead? It reviews very well here (http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?s=&threadid=276).
The RAM is an outrageous price - but I was only thinking of 512MB (2 x 256), but I am yet to commit to it.......at the end of the day something in the system will be the limiting factor, whether it is the PCI bus, the gfx card, the ram, cpu, temperature or voltage, something will get you. The advantage of PC3500 RAM is that it will be very unlikely that the RAM will be the limiting factor. But I guess that with PC3200 (very much cheaper) you would still be able to get a very fast system! The OCZ PC3200 low latency dual channel tested 2 x 256MB works out at about £140 inc.
Enermax is good for the PSU if you want a recommendation - and they are very quiet :D I have the 431W Enermax EG465AX-VE in my current case and it is beaut! Variable fan speed and oh so quiet.
As for the Prometeia - we'll have to wait and see, I have not gone that crazy yet, but it is close, real close......
TL.
Cheers matey, that Thermalright SLK-800 looks pretty darn good, the 900 looks awesome too, and its compible with the abit nForce mobo for securing it to the board.
I was thinking, if I get the basic components, high quality e.g. mobo, heat sink/ fan, PSU, RAM, then I should be able to get a system built that will have some good potential. I intend aiming for moderately oveclocking the cpu (say 2GHz) and increasing the gfx card I have up to Ti4600 level.
I'll likely get a decent 120GB HDD too as I only have a couple of 40GB 5400rpm things just now.
It's all about cost just now, so looking at the current setup, £500 should build what I want cause of not needing to get the media cards.
BTW, cpucity are darn cheap for everything, even the paste is only £4 compared to nearly £6 at O/clockers. their mobos are cheaper too.
Please NB that power isn't everything on a PSU. A good quality 350 Watt PSU may well outperform a cheap 500 Watt PSU!!!
What you need to check is the current that can be supplied on each of the rails (+12V, +5V, 3.3V, -5V and -12V rails). A 500 Watt PSU may give lots of current on one rail but little on another. get a PSU that gives lots of current on each rail and you'll be a happy bunny. PSUs should have a sticker on the side showing the current ouput capability on each rail.
You also want one that gives a good quality output (smooth and steady) but that is harder to check.
here is a good quality PSU.
http://www.thermaltake.com/products/purepo...ser/w001011.htm (http://www.thermaltake.com/products/purepower/Xaser/w001011.htm)
Click on the link then scroll down and you will see a table showing the current at each voltage. NB the +5VSB current. Many manufacturers recommend nothing less than 2 Amps on that rail yet a lot of PSUs still give about 1.5 Amps!
HTH?
Applying arctic silver to your cpu core:
Put a bead of AS on the core of your cpu. Then using something like a creditcard plaster the bead of AS evenly over the cpu core so you have a layer about 0.5mm thick..... (kinda paper thin).
The AS is only to fill in the scratches, NOT to form a filling between the cpu and heat sink.
If applied as above the AS will find its own way into the imperfections as the heatsink is attached and firmly secured.
yup. You want just enough to fill in the imperfections on the heatsink and chip surfaces to provide a continuous connection between the two. If you put on so much that theres actually a layer of thermal paste between the chip and metal heatsink you start to reduce the effectiveness of the heat transfer. Put on too much paste and you could actually worsen the connection to the point where its worse than having no thermal pate at all. If the metal connections could be trusted to be perfectly flat you wouldn't need it at all :n00b: btw, how soon until you can recount stories of some burnt out xp1700 chips?
QuotePlease NB that power isn't everything on a PSU. A good quality 350 Watt PSU may well outperform a cheap 500 Watt PSU!!!
What you need to check is the current that can be supplied on each of the rails (+12V, +5V, 3.3V, -5V and -12V rails). A 500 Watt PSU may give lots of current on one rail but little on another. get a PSU that gives lots of current on each rail and you'll be a happy bunny.
here is a good quality PSU.
http://www.thermaltake.com/products/purepo...ser/w001011.htm (http://www.thermaltake.com/products/purepower/Xaser/w001011.htm)
Click on the link then scroll down and you will see a table showing the current at each voltage. NB the +5VSB current. Many manufacturers recommend nothing less than 2 Amps on that rail yet a lot of PSUs still give about 1.5 Amps!
You are absolutely right about the quality aspect (I forgot to mention that bit but kinda hoped it was implied :oops: ), that's why I recommended the Enermax. I use it myself and it can be found here (http://www.enermax.com.tw/product-01.htm). It exceeds the Thermaltake specs as far as current delivery and also supplies the current within the same (or slightly better) tolerances :wink:
TL. 8)
Yup, that is indeed a better spec. The reason I like the Thermaltake is the front mounted fan control (you do not have to scrabble around at the back of the CPU). Otherwise, Enermax are always a safe bet :-)
Oh dear, this isn't going to be a straightforward as I first thought.
Are there any other little querks I should know. I thought this was about the size of the list of stuff needed to build the thing:
CPU
Heat Sink
Fan
Mobo
RAM
PSU
Pastey Pastey
Case of some description
IDE cables and, cables to go into the DVD drive, Floppy
GFX card (Got)
Sound card (Got)
Floppy
Tons on screws
Is that it other than the silly extra you mod maniacs like to put in your pcs?
If there is a nice page with a o00b guide on it, let me know. I can forsee a real botch coming over the horizon.
QuoteAre there any other little querks I should know. I thought this was about the size of the list of stuff needed to build the thing:
CPU (XP1700 JIUHB)
Heat Sink & Fan (Zalman Flower)
Mobo (Abit ABIT NF7-S V2.0)
RAM (OCZ 2 x 256MB PC3500 CAS2 dual channel tested)
PSU (get the Enermax!)
Pastey Pastey (AS3)
Case of some description (it HAS to be aluminium with a window, right :wink: )
IDE cables and, cables to go into the DVD drive, Floppy (most mobos come with these, but you will need to buy different ones if you want funky round cables etc)
GFX card (Got)
Sound card (Got)
Floppy (surely you go tthis already?)
Tons of screws
More fans for the case if the current ones are not powerful enough
Is that it other than the silly extra you mod maniacs like to put in your pcs?
If there is a nice page with a o00b guide on it, let me know. I can forsee a real botch coming over the horizon.
Trust me, you'll be fine - it is far more difficult to botch than you think :lol:
The above list is just about all you need. I'm still thinking about the RAM to go for, I almost pushed the button on the OCZ ram but not yet :D
I have changed my mind about the heatsink and fan after a discussion I was having with Smite. I went and looked at the figures and found a review of the Thermalright - it cools well, but it is real noisy 8O The Zalman cools real well and is quiet. Go with the Zalman - I finally remembered that it is what I use in my own system :D
TL. 8)
QuoteI've just ordered one of the abit motherboards last week, so hopefully it'll be here tomorrow. I'll let you know what it's like and whether id recommend buying it. :wink:
JB, when it arrives could you do me a favour please? Go here (http://www.chip-con.com/index.php?pageid=42) and print out the template and then tell me whether or not the Prometeia will fit that mobo?
Could you post the results back here please?
Thanks :D
TL. 8)
have just received 2 x jiuhb xp1700
and also just now ordered
Corsair XMS 512Mb DDR 400MHz PC3200 Cas 2 -Low Latency Platinum memory (from scan.co.uk todays special @ £110.45 inc).
heres what they said about it
" Introducing Corsair XMS 3500 512Mb Memory:
The CMX512-3500C2 is a 512 MByte, dual bank, ultra-performance DDR
SDRAM DIMM screened specifically for gaming applications. This part has been selected by Corsairs Compatibility Lab for its outstanding performance in motherboards commonly used in gaming rigs. This memory has been
verified to operate at 234MHz (2-4-4, 1T command rate). Generally, one 512 MByte module will outperform two 256 MByte modules in a given motherboard. Side-by-side comparison indicates that this is one of the fastest DDR modules available in the world.
Implemented using 32M x 8 DDR SDRAM with 5.0 nanosecond access time.
100% tested at 234Mhz in high performance KT400 based motherboards
integrated aluminium heatspreader for improved thermal performance
Benchmarked over multiple chipsets, processors, and motherboards
Legendary Corsair reliability and service.
Each module is tested (by Corsair) in an Asus A7V8X at 234Mhz" ...mmmm.....fastest in the world!!!.
also while i had the wifes credit card 8O and to complement the above
Abit NF7-S (V1.2) - nForce2 - USB2+A133/SATA+Dual DDR400+AGP8x motherboard (again from scan @ £84.60 inc)
also found this for 11 quid so i thought id give it a try
IOSS RD7-CoolingAfter
PC fan coolers are of utmost importance for computers today. It minimizes the pc temperature emitted by heat generating device during operation. The temperature inside the chassis is at a balance level while system is running. But once the system is shutdown, the fan will automatically stop causing the temperature to rise and linger for long period. With the RD7-CA, it will keep the fan(s) from dissipating heat for a specified time once the system is shut down. The gradual cool-down protects the electrical components from any damage that a sudden shutdown may cause after normal use of pc. Overclocking at high speed may cause even worse after shutting down abruptly. RD7-CA completely cools down and minimizes the bad effects of heat to the pc.
RD7 CA is tiny and works quietly
Dimension: 50x32mm (with mounting tab, 50x52mm)
Maximum output rating: 12W/Fan
NB: This requires a WOL connection on your motherboard
ahh...i love scan and i love my wifes credit rating !!!!
hopefully will build over the weekend (yeah right !)
this means (if it all works) that i will have virtually a whole pc for sale at the lan
abit kg7L mobo,256mb ddr pc2100 ram,abit siluro gf3 ti200,athlon t-bird 1.4(a damn fine overclocking chip had it stable at 1598mhz with just a decent copper heatsink. although once i did that i put it straight back to 1.4 didnt know when i was upgrading so better safe than sorry !!!!),SB audigy 5.1 soundcard,10/100 3com ethernet card
all that is needed extra is a hard drive and a case et voila a new(ish) pc
all the above stuff was brought new by me 8 months ago so is all in good nick. havent sorted out a price yet, but will maybe listen to reasonable offers for the lot.
Question: I see a lot of the 3200 and 3500 RAM selling in packs 1 x 512MB or 2 x 256MB. The Abit nForce mobos.... would they support:
2 x Corsair XMS 512Mb DDR 434MHz PC3500 Cas 2 - with Heat Spreader
????
QuoteQuestion: I see a lot of the 3200 and 3500 RAM selling in packs 1 x 512MB or 2 x 256MB. The Abit nForce mobos.... would they support:
2 x Corsair XMS 512Mb DDR 434MHz PC3500 Cas 2 - with Heat Spreader
????
Yes.
The reason you see more 'dual packs' of ddr ram these days is because of the the dual channel ram system that is available via, e.g. nForce2 chipsets.
Ignoring dual channel ram, a single 512MB stick of ddr ram will outperform 2 x 256MB sticks of ddr ram when compared on a single channel ram mobo.
If you put the ram into a dual channel capable ram mobo the 2 x 256MB sticks will outperform the single stick (which by virtue of being on its own cannot benefit from dual channel architecture).
What nvidia did with the nForce was to create 2 separate memory channels (64 bits each) creating an effective 128-bit memory bus. Data can be transferred from the memory to the chipset 128 bits per transfer rather than the normal 64 bits per transfer. That doesn't necessarily translate to a 2:1 performance improvement, but it is faster than a single stick of DDR RAM.
The reason that you see the RAM sold as 'dual packs' is because of the performance drop that is seen when 2 memory sticks of different speeds work together in dual channel mode. Memory will only work at the speed of the slowest, but in dual channel mode there is an extra penalty as well. As every stick of ram is 'slightly' different to the next (due to inevitable differences in manufacturing processes) then you need to make sure that the memory sticks that you want to use in a pair are as closely matches as possible AND will work at the rated speed in dual channel mode. So, the theory is that if you test and match the ram sticks in speed terms as closely as possible you should see the benefits of the dual channel performance and not get any of the disdvanatges of mismatched memory speeds.
Hope this helps.
TL. 8)
Quotehave just received 2 x jiuhb xp1700
and also just now ordered
Corsair XMS 512Mb DDR 400MHz PC3200 Cas 2 -Low Latency Platinum memory (from scan.co.uk todays special @ £110.45 inc).
Abit NF7-S (V1.2) - nForce2 - USB2+A133/SATA+Dual DDR400+AGP8x motherboard (again from scan @ £84.60 inc)
IOSS RD7-CoolingAfter
all that is needed extra is a hard drive and a case et voila a new(ish) pc
Nice one FatBob :D
Damn, Albert - have you started an upgrade craze? :lol: I think you may have - I'll post my purchase list once it is fully finalised. Just looking for that 'special' deal right now.......
TL. 8)
/me draws TLs attention to the advertisment that began this whole saga and its instigator! :D :lol: 8)
QuoteI have changed my mind about the heatsink and fan after a discussion I was having with Smite. I went and looked at the figures and found a review of the Thermalright - it cools well, but it is real noisy 8O The Zalman cools real well and is quiet. Go with the Zalman - I finally remembered that it is what I use in my own system :D
TL. 8)
I just checked the Zelman pages on Overclockers and the fans all seam to be geared towards the P4 chips. What model did you have in mind TL?
Ignore, I read the review, WOW, a veerd beast. Sold to the man with the dog. 8O
Well here is my planned outage, I mean system:
XP1700 OEM Thoroughbred cores JIUHB £45
ABIT NF7-S V2.0 £91.06
Enermax EG465AX-VE(G)(FMA) 460W ATX Power Supply £76.38
Zalman Flower CNPS6000-Cu Silent Socket A CPU Cooler £32.08
Arctic Silver III Thermal Compound (3g) (OA-002-AC) £4.11
120GB Caviar , WD1200JB,7200rpm, 8MB £120
80GB Caviar, WD800JB, 7200rpm, 8mb £80
Corsair 1GB DDR XMS3200 TwinX (2x512MB) CAS2 (MY-018-CS) £243.87
Abit OTES GeForce 4 Ti 4200 (clocked to 305/600) Got £0
Creative SB Audigy Got £0
SONY FDD 1.44MB OEM/6664 £10.81
LiteON 16x DVD-ROM - Retail (CD-008-LO) £31.73
Plus a case of some description £100
Some cables tidies to make this all fit in a box
Some silly lights (NOT)
Please can someone sanity chekc this and make any recommendations. :?
Takes me to about £900 :( my budget was £500. But I got a suprise bonus of £200 from work this week :D. And the deciding factor is, I must pass my exam tomorrow, if I do then I buy. And my missus has given me £100 for my 30th (old) birthday so what does tham make? £800 plus a £100 birthday pressie from me (as well as £500 for the initial budget)
[size=18][/size]£900 :D :lol: 8)
FB if i can get some money together b4 the lan then i may well be up for that mobo, cpu and ram thats if i can get some money together and if u do me a good deal!
QuoteFB if i can get some money together b4 the lan then i may well be up for that mobo, cpu and ram thats if i can get some money together and if u do me a good deal!
Saturday morning, 2am, behind Barclays in Cambridge. Bring a balaclava, and wear gloves. :wink: :lol:
Oi JB! STop gassing about free windows and get on with something important, like does the prometeia template fit that Abit mobo :D
TL. 8)
QuoteOi JB! STop gassing about free windows and get on with something important, like does the prometeia template fit that Abit mobo :D
TL. 8)
Big Old Fart ! :onfire:
Bugger your prometian type thing, i wanna know why my processor is running at near 60 degrees. =/
u got a sh!t cooler, or u must have cr4ppy cooling system around your case. somethings gotta b wrong with it.
QuoteBugger your prometian type thing, i wanna know why my processor is running at near 60 degrees. =/
You'll need to take your heat sink off and reseat it with fresh AS3. Seeing as ti was the last of the tube you put on yesterday you probably put some really manky goop on the cpu :(
But while you have the heatsink off, check if the prometeia template fits the mobo eh, now there's a good chap :wink:
TL. 8)
Quoteu got a sh!t cooler, or u must have cr4ppy cooling system around your case. somethings gotta b wrong with it.
Wrong, wrong, wrong and wrong. :P
Btw it'll fit just fine m8, there's at least 10mm around all the edges of the cpu thingy.
I'd give this board a thumbs up.
Only thing that worries me is my old Mb would show my cpu to be about 38-40 degrees when idle, but for some reason this one is now at 47-50 degrees when idle, same processor, same fan, and now with some fresh thermal compound from coolermaster (the premium gold stuff).
Any clues oh great cooling master TL.
This one is easy to solve. I bet the sensor over-reads the temp - it is quit e a common phenomena. Quite a few mobos are known to read 10+ degrees to high.......do you have anything else to check temp with? An independent temp sensor perhaps?
TL. 8)
Think Smity will lend me his anal thermometer?
:::::eeeewh:::::
Actually, one other potential source of the problemo is that the line of resistors near the cpu socket (the ones used to sense temperature) are actually too close and take on radiant and/or conducted heat from the heatsink itself - leading to a temperature over-read. This has been a common problem on Abit boards before.......
TL. 8)
QuoteBtw it'll fit just fine m8, there's at least 10mm around all the edges of the cpu thingy.
I'd give this board a thumbs up.
:D Cheers :thumbsup:
QuoteThink Smity will lend me his anal thermometer?
You really are wierd
(http://www.noquarter.co.uk/ebad/forum/smileys/smiley15.gif)
QuoteBtw it'll fit just fine m8, there's at least 10mm around all the edges of the cpu thingy.
I'd give this board a thumbs up.
Only thing that worries me is my old Mb would show my cpu to be about 38-40 degrees when idle, but for some reason this one is now at 47-50 degrees when idle, same processor, same fan, and now with some fresh thermal compound from coolermaster (the premium gold stuff).
Any clues oh great cooling master TL.
Is it an Abit board? they are known for this!
PS, my MSI board reads about 7C lower in the bios than in windows.... that too is a known bug.
QuoteQuoteBtw it'll fit just fine m8, there's at least 10mm around all the edges of the cpu thingy.
I'd give this board a thumbs up.
Only thing that worries me is my old Mb would show my cpu to be about 38-40 degrees when idle, but for some reason this one is now at 47-50 degrees when idle, same processor, same fan, and now with some fresh thermal compound from coolermaster (the premium gold stuff).
Any clues oh great cooling master TL.
Is it an Abit board? they are known for this!
PS, my MSI board reads about 7C lower in the bios than in windows.... that too is a known bug.[/b]
Sounds to me like all these pc temperature gauges are crap and you'd be as well using smitey's thermometer! :lol:
Albert, the majority of them sense the air under the cpu, they don't even use the cpu diode!
The best you can do is get one of those nice temp probes off any of the many overclocking stores and put its ickle paperthin probe right upto the cpu core under the heat sink. For those hard of thinking for God's sake make sure the probe does not interfer with the heat sinks seating.
QuoteAlbert, the majority of them sense the air under the cpu, they don't even use the cpu diode!
The best you can do is get one of those nice temp probes off any of the many overclocking stores and put its ickle paperthin probe right upto the cpu core under the heat sink. For those hard of thinking for God's sake make sure the probe does not interfer with the heat sinks seating.
I'l just be happy to get the CPU seated, the heat sink on top and the fan set right. I think adding that extra thing to the equation will raise my odds of success even higher. :wink: