ok, finally convinced myself, spent some money (not much) and got ready to go.
Nforce2 board
Athlon CPU, the overclockable one, some 3200 memory
Ok, put it all in and did nothing, and it ran fine,
ramped it up a little, to 1.6Gig and it ran but noticed temp was up to 50.
decided to redo the heatsink and compund. Have done.
Now I get a lethargic siren alarm on boot up. It gets as far as post, irrespective of pressin del for BIOS or not, it still wails, shuts down the CPU fan and does feck all.
Reset the bios with the jumper, put my old CPU back and it does the same thing.
Haven't touched the HD's, have removed the CD's, have re-seated memory etc, gone back to old memory. Anyway, I'm either going to cry or I'm going to smash it. HELP ME. I have no CS, just this laptop that is poop.
THanks
J
Have you checked the fan cables? One may have slipped out..
Also, I recall my PC didn't recognize my CPU fan on first boot. I went into the bios and it showed it was running fine.
But what do I know.. I'm an accountant!!
AS Ninja says check that the fan is plugged in and that it is plugged into the cpu fan power out as if it fails to detect it it will shut the system down.
Aye, that would be my guess too. But 50 degrees for a 1.6GHz overclock of a 1.4GHz chip is WAY too high - mine only got to 50 when I had it overclocked to 2.3GHz or higher and when it was under load. I take it form the heatsink reapplication that it was seated properly? If it wasn't then your CPU could have been cooked, but then you usually get no initial single bios beep on boot up, so the fan sounds most likely if it is getting that far.
Post the make of your mobo and bios (inc version) if you can and we'll have a look for sme beep codes for you. GL Benny........
QuoteBut what do I know.. I'm an accountant!!
He'll know exactly how much it will cost to replace, by how much it is over budget and over what period you will have to write it off :o
TL. 8)
Benny, I just found this over at nForcersHQ in relation to a beep problem. It might be relevant, it might not:
QuoteIf the beeping is alternating highs and lows ( "bee-boo-bee-boo" like an ambulance), power everything off, hold down the INSERT key. Power back up while holding the insert key. If things are fine, you should be able to get into the BIOS and disable the "Shutdown When CPU Fan Fail" option to cure the problem.
If the beeps are high pitched, incessant ones (like a severe weather tone on TV) then unplug the PC and remove one stick of RAM (if you have two sticks). If you only have one stick of RAM, remove it entirely and reseat it. Take the time to reseat the graphics card, too. Plug it all back in and try it. If that don't cure it, unplug the power again. This time, try moving your RAM stick to a different slot and powering up each time you move it to a different slot.
If it still beeps incessantly after that round, the board might be grounding out somewhere inside the case. Remove the motherboard completely and place it on top of the box it came in. Hook up a stick of RAM, video card, and PSU. Now, grab your manual and look at the top of page 3-14 - the diagram for the FPIO headers. If your "power switch" wire insde the case is long enough, you'll need to hook that up to the "POW-ON" header in this diagram so hitting the switch on the case will turn everything on (otherwise, you'll have to use some other means of shorting this header for a second to apply power)
If the board powers up and POSTs fine at this point, then look inside your case for any extra metal studs used to secure the board in the case as they could be the culprit that caused the problem in the first place. Personally, I'm only using 5 of those studs in an X pattern (2 at the top corners, one in the middle, and the last two in the bottom corners) to secure the board in my case so you might want to try that.
If, however, the board still beeps repeatedly, you're only left with the option of reseating the CPU and HSF. If it's still give you problems after that, you may have to try another graphics card, different RAM or another CPU and if those are fruitless, seriously consider RMAing the board all together.
It's the first paragrraph that might help.......or not :?
TL. 8)
old - deleted
Well if nothing else you are undervolting so you can afford to up your Vcore to something like 1.6v at least....
TL. 8)
Getting there.
All installed in a new case, added old fans, need to sort that out. here's the stats, any advice appreciated
Processor
Model : AMD Athlon™
Co-Processor (FPU) : Built-in
Speed : 1.84GHz
Model Number : 2222 (estimated)
Performance Rating : PR2665 (estimated)
Type : Standard
Package : Socket A PGA
Multiplier : 11x
Generation : 7 (7x86)
Host Interface(s)
Front Side Bus Speed : 2x 167MHz (334MHz data rate)
Sensors
CPU Temperature : 49.5°C / 121.1°F
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
CPU Fan Speed : 1985rpm
CPU Voltage : 1.46V
Model : NF7-S/NF7-M/NF7 (nVidia-nForce2)
Version : 1.X
System BIOS : 03/17/2003-nVidia-nForce-6A61BA1BC-10
Chipset : nVidia nForce2 ICP
System Memory Controller
Location : Mainboard
Error Correction Capability : None
Number of Memory Slots : 3
Maximum Installable Memory : 1GB
Bank0/1 - A0 : Empty
Bank2/3 - A1 : DIMM 256MB
Bank4/5 - A2 : DIMM 256MB
Chipset
Model : Abit Computer Corp nForce2 AGP Controller
Bus(es) : ISA AGP PCI USB FireWire/1394
Front Side Bus Speed : 2x 167MHz (334MHz data rate)
Logical/Chipset Memory Banks
Power Save Mode : No
Fixed Hole Present : No
Environment Monitor 1
Model : Winbond W83627HF ISA
Version : 2.01
Mainboard Specific Support : No
Temperature Sensor(s)
Board Temperature : 28.0°C / 82.4°F
CPU Temperature : 49.0°C / 120.2°F
Cooling Device(s)
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
Chassis Fan Speed : 2679rpm
CPU Fan Speed : 1985rpm
Power / Aux Fan Speed : 2637rpm
Voltage Sensor(s)
CPU Voltage : 1.44V
Aux Voltage : 2.67V
+3.3V Voltage : 3.25V
+5V Voltage : 4.89V
+12V Voltage : 11.67V
-12V Voltage : -11.87V
-5V Voltage : -5.00V
Standby Voltage : 4.95V
Battery Voltage : 3.47V
1. Update your BIOS - it appears several versions too old for a v1.x mobo.
2. What help do you want? What are you trying to achieve? If you are trying to over clock then you will need to up your voltages a bit as everything is under-volted to below default.
If you can give me an idea of what you want to do then I'll try to provide some feeback...
TL. 8)
get the most out of it with out spending any mioney....am on the dole you see ;)
Quoteget the most out of it with out spending any mioney....am on the dole you see ;)
On the dole :!: :?: :!: SACK HIM :!:
Ooooh hold on a minute :?:
Smilo, get yer ears cut!
Quoteget the most out of it with out spending any mioney....am on the dole you see ;)
OK, I assume this means you are looking to overclock it?
1. Do the BIOS upgrade.
2. Take the side off the case and try to re-seat the CPU cooler you have- 49 degrees is way hot normal operation (my over-volted and over-clocked system peaked at about 52 under load - and my XP2000 system on which I am typing this is running at 41).
3. Re-route cables to aid airflow to help cooling.
4. Whilst the CPU cooler is off then write down the serial number of the CPU. Post the serial number (all of it) back here on the forums.
5. Refer to www.cpudatabase.com (http://www.cpudatabase.com) to see what sort of speeds other people have got out of the same CPU with what voltages and what cooling.
6. Your system is under-volting which means that the various chips are not receiving the minimum they are expecting in ordert to do their job at their rated speed. The problem is that if you up your volts it will increase your temperatures and you are already running hotter than normal for some reason. NOw it may be that the BIOS readings are off and the BIOS update will have some adjustments that may show a more accurate temp reading once you you flashed the new bios, but on the assumption that it is not a bios error, then you need to run a cooler system if you want to overclock.
7. Once happy with temps then you should look to increase your volts in BIOS (by one step for each). This will alow the system to run at 'normal' volt levels. Watch your temps.
8. What RAM are you running? If you have PC2700 RAM then with a 167MHz FSB you are pretty close to your FSB limit anyway. How much extra headroom you get out of your system will depend on the quality of your RAM and how much you are prepared to up the vram settings. 2.8v would be my normal absolute max, but the new OCZ sticks are rated for 3.0v, but again watch the temps. Remember too much volts kills chips as the electrons are so highly charged they literally punch holes through the substrate layers, leading to either shorter life expectancy than normal, or immediate death in extreme cases. If you have PC3200 then it should be quite happy with a 200MHz FSB, PC3500 with 218MHz GSB etc.
Note: Some NF7-S v1.x mobos get stuck at a FSB of circa 182MHz and will nto go higher if they run a default 166MHz FSB CPU. AMD and Abit do nto understand why, it just happens. If this happens then (a) you ar eunlucky) and (B) you can get around it by fooling the mobo into thinking it has a default 133MHz FSB CPU installed - it will then happily overclock to 200MHz and beyond etc.9. If you are not at your FSB limit for the RAM then start increasing the FSB in 5Mhz increments, rebooting and then run a benchmark or two to see if the system is stable at that setting - watch your temps and shut down if getting too hot and reduce your settings or improve cooling (this is the proper way of doing it). Alternatively you can go for bigger jumps if you are nowhere near the limit you have.
10. The MF7-S locks down the other buses so your gfx card, PCI, AGP and IDE buses and the hardware plugged into them should not be damaged at all by any of the above overclocking.
11. Watch the temps of your northbridge and southbridge chips. It is worth taking the fan off the northbridge and re-seating it with a decent amount of AS3 (thermal goop) as the manufacurer install used either a lump of putty or nothing :( Southbridge is less troublesome and a 'finger' test should tell you if it is too hot!
12. If you find the system becoming unstable and you are still under your FSB/RAM limit then if temps are OK try upping your voltages again - watch temps! Then re-try. Once you have hit your RAM ceiling or slightly over then you have found your max FSB setting.
13. Whilst messing with the FSB you should make sure that you reduce your multiplier. This will make sure that the systme is not over-stressed during your FSB testing. The formula (apologies for eggs/teaching/suck etc) is Multiplier x FSB = CPU GHz speed. So if you start at the normal multipler of 11 and up you FSB from 167 to 200 you CPU has become a 2.2GHz CPU. Dropping the multiplier to say 10 during this testing puts less stress on the system. Once you have found your FSB limit then up the multiplier too and through running benchmarks you can find out which combination of multiplier and FSB gives you the overrall best performance. Usually you will want your FSB as close to the max as possible and then try to get the highest multiplier form there. This maximises CPU and RAM bandwidth ustilisation and this is generally the most important factor in speeding up your system.
Remember that overclockign invalidates your warranty and you coudl fry thngs....so take it one step at a time and 'tout faire lentement'. :wink:
Gee, I have far too much time on my hands... :?
TL. 8)
So with my CPU at 56 deg C I'm running a tad warm, huh?
Hmm. Time to go shopping for a decent PSU and some quieter fans... erk...
j.
Better still, time to get TL over to my house to fit some decent cooling to my CPU :)
That can be arranged...... :lol:
TL. 8)