Tire pressures / temps Quote from: AristotelisQuote from: someblokeHeyo, i've been reading around and sadly it turns out that the AC tyre model uses an optimum tyre pressure for best grip, atleast as far as i've read. Now, my question is, does this still apply with the newer tyre models? AFAIK, it would still make sense to use different tyre pressures for the driving style of the driver, no? Unless the game is set to using a set number and however far you deviate from that number, grip deteriorates, is this correct? If so, why doesn't kunos give us a number in the pits for optimum tyre pressures for specific compounds?
Sadly?
Obviously this is not your fault, I'm not pointing a finger to you in any case and thank you for coming in the pits to get more knowledge. Nevertheless, this the result of the "damage" that some uninformed and bad intended "websites" and forum "experts" are doing, while trying to get the clicks...
So let me ask you that. You'll certainly have heard in all the real races, either in GT or single seater, or prototype, even F1 categories... Drivers complain about grip. Engineers say they had to compromise on tyre pressures to get heat up and setups to work, tyre manufacturers complaining about drivers and engineers keeping the pressures too low or too high and having excess wear and so on. It turns out that real tyres DO have an optimum tyre pressure for best grip/wear/heat. Guess what? AC simulates this (as well as practically every other sim around).
Now, some "smart guys" thought that by opening AC physics and looking at the tyres.ini files, they found the magic number of the optimum tyre pressure and then do an article on it to show "the truth" and how smart and wise they are and how lame AC is. They found an optimum tyre pressure number and thought "that's it, that is were we have to always stay, AC is scripted". Luckily for us and all the people that try and drive AC in depth, this is only just half the truth. There is an optimum pressure as in any real life tyre, but then there's a ton of compromises you have to do and more often than not, the optimum pressure is not at that "magic number" but rather in a range around it.
Will you go for a slightly less pressure to get the tyres heat up more to the correct temperature? But you're gonna lose some precision in handling and probably gain some traction and/or braking.
Will you go for more pressure to cool tyres a bit and have more precision in handling but probably less grip all around but also higher top speed?
So as you can see, yes it's good to be on the optimum pressure. Should you do it? Not really, it's a compromise and you should work around it, find the optimum range and what suits you and your driving style better.
Quote from: someblokeAlso, I've read the FAQ and found information on tyre temperatures, but it doesn't seem to have all the tyre types listed, (like street 90's for example), anyone know what the temps for those would be as well?
As @Berniyh very well said, tyre app is your friend. Get on your car, open the tyre app, do some laps and watch what happens in the tyre app. Adjust your cold pressures trying to bring your hot pressures close to a green colour. Same for tyre temps. The tyre app is all you need, just do 3-4 laps, look at it, go back to the pits, adjust and repeat.
Finally, keep in mind that street cars start with their tyre cold pressures much higher as designed by the car manufacturer. This happens because in that way, while the car travels on normal streets, the tyres are closer to their optimum pressure and thus give optimum grip for normal street driving. So the FIRST thing you have to do on road cars, is immediately lower your cold pressures.
Hope this helps, have fun.
BrakesQuote from: AristotelisQuote from: bloke1Hello guys,
I was in awe with how much easier became to brake, even the shelby cobra. I have no problems with it, but I was wondering how realistic this is in comparison with before. Can someone enlighten me on the matter?
Quote from: Bloke2What exactly does "easier" mean in this regard? All i've noticed is that you can press the pedal all down to the floor now, which is kind of realistic, because, the cars had kind of sh** breaks back then. I haven't noticed a difference to the general brake behavior apart from that though.
Not exactly, you can press the pedal all down at the start of a braking zone, until the braking pads come on temperature. Then things get all more interesting. When braking pads are on optimum temp, then they will lock. And depending on how long the braking zone is, what your braking bias front/rear is and if you use the bad sim habbit of accelerating while braking, then you might get lock ups at the rear, destabilizing the car. It gets trickier at the limit.
Useful stuff to know, for me anyway.