So I took a gamble on this panel -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0866GCPXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Key specs -
'Ultrawide' 34", flat panel.
3440 x 1440 (1440p in 21:9) - think of it like a 27" 1440p panel with extra bits on the sides.
144Hz* - read below for the real kicker.
IPS Panel with reasonable response times (they claim 1ms, which is a best case scenario - still, it remains decent for an IPS).
*The real bonus here is with my panel I have quite easily managed to OC it up to 190Hz. In fact, I can push the panel all the way to 210Hz before it starts to error - but display port simply doesn't have the bandwidth for 210Hz at 1440p, forcing the colour depth to 6bit if I run it at this speed. Keeping it at 190 keeps bit depth at 8bit, which is the panel's native (and the native of 99% of panels out there).
Now, it is possible I have got insanely lucky with this panel - there is no way anyone should expect 190Hz out of a 144Hz panel. You might find another one that can't even hit 150 - all you're guaranteed is the 144 it ships with. Either way, for the asking price of £340, it seems a bit of a bargain to me.
Worth considering if you're after an ultrawide with some frames... only thing left to see is how I get on without the curve! Not a deal breaker at this price, without a doubt.
-- Still playing with the OC! It was frame skipping at 170 seems fine, trying to fiddle with the various knobs to see if I can get it higher. :flirty:
Looks nice. For what it's worth the curved screen should very quickly not be an issue or even noticeable. It's a feature that quickly becomes invisible as you get used to it. I'm sure I'm stating the obvious but it subtly improves the viewing experience for a wider screen as the curve sort of matches our own eyes viewing angle and subtly obscures the fact that the edges of a wide screen are noticeably further away from us then the centre. The idea is it makes for a more natural viewing angle. I'm actually extremely tempted to snag this one myself. Nice find.
Of course in the same way that some people are audio-ponces :norty: I am a complete unashamed optical-ponce. So sRGB only! Enjoy those green shades.... not.
Also don't bring it to the LAN it's too big!
i'm waiting till the hdmi 2.1 panels come out next year, might replace my samsung 32" 4k monitor as its only 60hz
Quote from: smilodon;444257Also don't bring it to the LAN it's too big!
Use it for split screen? :roflmao:
Apologies I misunderstood\misread, it's not a curved monitor.
And I succumbed. Thanks for the heads up Chaos. Now I just need a complete new pc to do it justice.
Quote from: smilodon;444278And I succumbed. Thanks for the heads up Chaos. Now I just need a complete new pc to do it justice.
New years drunkin ordering?
If only. One bottle of Porter and a big mug of Ovaltine
Quote from: smilodon;444264Apologies I misunderstood\misread, it's not a curved monitor.
Ha, I didn't even notice, I thought you were saying how I would live without the curve! Reading between the lines.
Honestly for £340 I remain so impressed. You couldn't get anywhere near these specs in an IPS for this money a few years ago.
I have it mounted on one of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08B8X4KBV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - which is also fantastic, and actually one of those 'how did I get by before?' moments. Being able to just grab and move my panel, with ease, is absolutely game-changing from an ergonomics point of view.
Hope you like it!
My PC is up in the loft conversion so I'm at the mercy of a steeply sloping roofline behind my desk.
One of the main plus's for me is that the distance between the very top and base of the new monitor is
actually 1 inch lower than my current curved 27 inch. So even though it's huge it will fit neatly into the space I have.
I can leave my NOC photography monitor where it is on the only flat wall I have.
Oh and all that stuff about MHz and ms is very important too :)
How is Freesync compared to G-Sync? Having never tried either I only know about the technical differences, so I wondered if you noticed a difference in that respect (as I seem to recall you were on G-Sync on a previous monitor?)
Idk if you're referring to smilo or myself, but I haven't used a GSync panel before.
I have tried GSync/Freesync (I've a 1080Ti) on this monitor, and it seems to work very well. Trying Cyberpunk with it on does indeed lead to a much better experience at the 50-60 FPS I'm running at. I also fired up one of the Tomb Raider games, which runs at more like 100-120 FPS, and again, smooth as butter.
Really, I am smitten with this panel. I don't doubt there are many better IPS panels out there, but I think you'd struggle to find one without paying a good £200+ more.
And £200 saved is £200 towards the next set of headphones. :flirty:
I wonder if bricks and mortar retail will ever recover post Covid. I ordered the above monitor about 1.00am on New year's Day
and it's arriving in about 30 minutes. How long until I order it at 9am and it arrives by drone 30 minutes later.
I don't envy people who work in retail.
Ah sorry Ben, I thought you had. No worries, I'm not purchasing a new monitor just yet anyway but just wondered.
As a total aside, but still on a hardware kick, Dex looked for a replacement PSU the other day - almost every PSU of reasonable size was out of stock at Scan/Overclockers etc, so it is not just CPUs and GPUs that are vaporware these days. Some of the PSUs were talking about coming back into stock in MAY 2021. :blink:
I have a question. In NL they sell a VA LED version of this that is also curved but it's very competetively priced.
Anyone have a clue what differences there is between the G-Master GB3466WQSU-B1 | 34" and the one you got Ben, G-Master GB3461WQSU-B1 | 34" ? They are â,¬100 in price difference in favour of the VA LED model.
I see VA LED vs ADF-IPS as one difference of course, but is one panel type better than the other (LED I read is good for movies)? VA has higher contrast ration 3000:1 vs 1000:1, HDR400 vs HDR ready(?) but on the other hand horizontal frequency is better on the GB3461 IPS panel: 30-160Hz vs 30-220Hz. That would explain why you are getting 190Hz reliability(?).
Other than this a few aesthetic differences and of course the curved nature of the 3466 are all I can find in terms of comparison. So what do I get in the GB3461 model for an extra â,¬100?
The GB3566 curved version is 2cm lower when installed. It also has lower Watt speakers, not something everyone really cares about but the 5Watt on the GB3461 may tip the balance for some.
Quote from: Chaosphere;444281I have it mounted on one of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08B8X4KBV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - which is also fantastic, and actually one of those 'how did I get by before?' moments. Being able to just grab and move my panel, with ease, is absolutely game-changing from an ergonomics point of view.
I picked up a pair of these though, I have my 165Hz 27" screen as my primary as I felt frustrated with the ROG 4K 27" screen a bought first, so that became a browsing screen. Now with the 3090 in use the 4K screen has serious purpose, so a way to move between them with decent arms seems a nice way forward. I've so far been using a perfectly good arm that Toby recommended years ago but the only issue is that is doesn't have much lateral movement, mostly vertical.
Edit to the previous post: the GB3466 I found is a return, with one dead pixel. for â,¬355 as opposed to â,¬469 for the flat version in discussion in this topic. The return does have a 30 day return guarantee, worth a punt?
Edit 2: I brought Cheddar into the Netherlands today!!! Chuck Brexit!
Quote from: albert;444313I have a question. In NL they sell a VA LED version of this that is also curved but it's very competetively priced.
Anyone have a clue what differences there is between the G-Master GB3466WQSU-B1 | 34" and the one you got Ben, G-Master GB3461WQSU-B1 | 34" ? They are â,¬100 in price difference in favour of the VA LED model.
I see VA LED vs ADF-IPS as one difference of course, but is one panel type better than the other (LED I read is good for movies)? VA has higher contrast ration 3000:1 vs 1000:1, HDR400 vs HDR ready(?) but on the other hand horizontal frequency is better on the GB3461 IPS panel: 30-160Hz vs 30-220Hz. That would explain why you are getting 190Hz reliability(?).
Other than this a few aesthetic differences and of course the curved nature of the 3466 are all I can find in terms of comparison. So what do I get in the GB3461 model for an extra â,¬100?
The GB3566 curved version is 2cm lower when installed. It also has lower Watt speakers, not something everyone really cares about but the 5Watt on the GB3461 may tip the balance for some.
VA and IPS panels are quite different.
In a nutshell, you could expect the VA to have better blacks, and the IPS to have better motion.
Of the 3 common panel techs, VAs are the slowest in terms of pixel response. This is something independent of their refresh rate. I moved from a 100Hz VA panel to this, and one of the biggest differences I notice day-to-day is less smearing during motion, which is a result of the faster response times. This is most evidence in the darker shades in a scene. So although those blacks are deep and the contrast is great, they smear with motion. There will also be differences in colour reproduction, viewing angles, and things like 'IPS glow' (image search this one to see some dramatic results) too. These will all differ panel to panel, as there are definitely good and bad IPS panels, and good and bad VA panels.
IPS panels have for a long time been considered superior to VA, due to often better colour reproduction and motion, but I think there is good evidence VA is catching up. IPS panels have been more expensive as they are more costly to manufacture. That said, I don't think I'd buy a cheaper VA panel again. I've tried that and the smearing bothered me, whereas this cheap IPS has amazed me simply for what you get for your money - you couldn't get an IPS this good for £340 a few years ago. I don't doubt there are even better IPS panels available today if you spend more, and no doubt someone coming from a high end IPS could find this iiyama panel inferior and perhaps ugly to look at! All depends on what you're used to, what you're personal needs are, and how much you notice your particular panel's flaws.
I hope that provides some useful information? Ultimately, I have no idea if the VA version of this panel will be any good. They can be vastly different in overall performance despite otherwise being seemingly identical. Without trying it, it is hard to say. For 100 Euroes, personally I probably wouldn't bother with the VA.. I think the IPS panel here is already a superb price.
Finally to briefly (for me) answer the question about horizontal refresh rates... you can ignore that. All monitors have high numbers here compared to their vertical refresh rates. I can't claim to understand the why of that, but I do know it is the vertical rates that are used to guide perceived responsiveness / smoothness in motion, never the horizontal. This also doesn't have anything to do with why I am able to push my particular panel faster than stock, that is just luck of the draw. 'Silicon lottery'. It is the same with buying a CPU. We could both buy a 11700K when they release, and with the exact same settings on an Overclock your CPU might be stable at 5.4Ghz where as mine might crash and crash, topping out at a measly 4.9 when adjusted, for example. Luck of the draw. Some silicon just goes to 11. With that in mind, you might buy the exact same iiyama panel I did and find it won't run at 145Hz without error. The only guarantee is 144, anything beyond that is entirely a gamble - and tbh, who even Overclocks their monitor? Practically pointless in most instances, and I am happy to admit that! I am in the minority here... but I would overclock my shoes if I could.
Hope that helps!
I did look into this as well. I am not sure I have it 100% right but
The IPS panel (3461) has superior image quality at the edges when looking at the screen from an angle. Being 34" wide and flat it would be in danger of showing a quality fall off at the edges otherwise.
The VA-LED (3466) has a poorer effective viewing angle but being curved doesn't need this additional feature as you don't view the edges of the screen from such a sharp angle. So I assumed it was as broad as it was long and a few reviews didn't suggest there was a big difference.
QuoteNeither technology is inherently superior to the other, they both serve different purposes. In general, IPS TVs will have a wide viewing angle suitable for use in a bright living room for sports (https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/sports/best) or TV shows (https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/tv-shows/best). They also benefit PC monitor (https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/pc-monitor) use, since edges darken with a low viewing angle. VA TVs will instead have better contrast rendering them better for use in a dark, home-theater (https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-usage/movies/best) type of environment. Choosing between the two is a series of trade-offs and qualities, so pick depending on your usage, as neither are the absolute best.
The Curved monitor is generally a few hundred quid more expensive than the flat.
Quote from: smilodon;444317I did look into this as well. I am not sure I have it 100% right but
The IPS panel (3461) has superior image quality at the edges when looking at the screen from an angle. Being 34" wide and flat it would be in danger of showing a quality fall off at the edges otherwise.
The VA-LED (3466) has a poorer effective viewing angle but being curved doesn't need this additional feature as you don't view the edges of the screen from such a sharp angle. So I assumed it was as broad as it was long and a few reviews didn't suggest there was a big difference.
The Curved monitor is generally a few hundred quid more expensive than the flat.
I am tending to agree, viewing angle is a plus of the flat panel. When placed directly infront of the thing like most gamer are, then that has little relevence. I think the same applied, Hz - IPS, blackness and intensity - LED. The HDR400 part has me interested, simply because I saw a few monitors with this enabled at the last LAN back in 1819 and they looked stunning.
I am opinionated on HDR, as I am many things, and in my book anything below HDR 1000 is not HDR. 400 nits of brightness is not HDR. More importantly, IPS panels cannot reproduce the dark shades required for HDR. Neither can VA, despite being better at it.
Some of the more expensive panels use local dimming, where the lighting in the panel is divided into zones that can be individually dimmed - the 27" 4K panels released a couple of years ago that cost £2000+ did this - and these are better at HDR, as in dimming these specific areas they try to emulate those blackest of blacks with much more success than a standard always entirely lit panel can do, but even this pales in comparison to OLED black. Those panels could also hit a peak of 1000 nits IIRC. Oh, and did I mention they cost £2000+?
If you want HDR, you get an OLED. They go bright, and more importantly they can entirely turn off individual pixels on the fly, producing genuine blacks. That is HDR. 1000+ nits peak and sustained brightness, 10 bit colour ('HDR 10'), black blacks. 400 nits IPS will never, ever, ever be HDR.
I remain convinced OLED is the panel technology of the future. When it becomes financially viable to produce screens of the right size and specs for PC use... I will be the first one lining up with my wallet out. :D
I took a punt on the used panel I mentioned earlier. If the location isn't central then I can probably become oblivious to it.
You can buy a 48" OLED TV from LG right now. It's expensive as shrinking OLED seems to be an issue. I've seen some YouTubers swear by 48" PC gaming. It may be fine for them but I'm not personally convinced. Maybe when they knock another 10" off the size it might be viable as desktop monitor for me. :D
I've seen children go hungry because of parents who can't live without the best most expensive TV. All for Eastenders. Step away from the OLED....
*Looks at TV*
We don't have kids yet.
:roflmao:
My returned open box LED version of the montor arrived. As promised, one dead pixel, bottom right corner, seems to be reducing with burn in though. But being £100 less I think I can live with it anyways, since it only shows on bright white or green backgrounds.
I have to say, the blackness of the screen is impressive for this price. There isn't a single bleed spot, only a very faint glow and when I lower the brightness to sensible levels, 25 for example, black as space.
I tried Death Stranding, solid 144Hz with the HDR setting on in game, ultra (no DSR), and I have to say even though it's not HDR1000, just 400, the difference was noticable and quite impressive.
Sorry, did you get the VA version? They're all LED panels, but how the LED works is different from IPS, TN, VA. If you're pleased with the blacks I'll assume VA!
Glad you're enjoying the HDR. Probably its more to do with what you're used to. We have a fantastic OLED in the lounge that I love to bits, and the HDR on that is astounding. Gives me a high bar to compare against.
That and as I've said, I have strong opinions on the matter!
Quote from: Chaosphere;444354Sorry, did you get the VA version? They're all LED panels, but how the LED works is different from IPS, TN, VA. If you're pleased with the blacks I'll assume VA!
Glad you're enjoying the HDR. Probably its more to do with what you're used to. We have a fantastic OLED in the lounge that I love to bits, and the HDR on that is astounding. Gives me a high bar to compare against.
That and as I've said, I have strong opinions on the matter!
Yes the VA version, The Iiyama spec says LED-VA on their web page but it took a bit of digging to realise the LED mention is misleading.
What's interesting is the mess that multple implementations of HDR can make. The monitor has an HDR menu item, Windows 10 also then a game that supports it also has HDR controls in the Settings. The Windows 10 options is terrible. Also if a blue filter is applied or a black area filter then HDR isn't available. Lot's to play with but so far I am good with the Mode 1 blue filter and a brightness of 20, then in game enable HDR. I'm not even sure it is using the monitor HDR. Previously with the old monitor all HDR options in Windows or games was greyed out so it must do something.
Also finding all this real estate makes working far less disruptive, as it's like having 3 large windows so all my work apps that are important visible without alt-tabbing.
But gaming is just awesome! Stands arrive today.
Nice one, enjoy mate.
I remain pleased with mine. For the money, it is a great panel.
Interesting bit of info for new users of this monitor. The Windows 10 display settings and the GeForce Config Panel both recognise the monitor as 60Hz by default. By setting the monitor resolution in the nvidia config to 144Hz then windows also recognises the monitor true refresh rate. Doing so also allows an nvidia card to use the FreeSync feature of the monitor.
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-freesync-display-nvidia-gpu
The monitor also has Overdrive, and MBR. Both add extra voltage to the panel to make colour appear faster, in other words refresh at the 1ms claimed.
They also cause overshoot and the ghosting and smearing associated with it. Overdrive is essentially overclocking the pixels. It might make them change colour faster but it also invariably leads to errors. I wouldn't go beyond +1 for the OD. If you don't find the monitor smeary with it off, probably best to leave it so.
MBR is motion blue reduction that essentially uses back-light strobing to reduce perceived blur. Its quality differs panel to panel and I haven't tried it on this iiyama yet. Tbh I generally avoid it as it usually also introduces ghosting and can negatively affect colour, contrast, and (always) brightness. This does differ panel to panel. Again, if you have no issues with this off.. I wouldn't recommend it. You likely will notice smoother more pleasant gaming with freesync, and you cant use both. I'd suggest trying freesync as I'd imagine most people will prefer that to MBR.
And finally, with every monitor you need to set it beyond 60Hz in Windows, either with nVidia or AMD control panels or in Windows display settings - Windows defaults to a peasantly 60Hz! :flirty:
And that is a cue for a complete rundown of recommended settings for this monitor, over to you Mr C.
It's not like you have got anything much else to do during the lockdown. I'm assuming the NHS has furloughed you all?
Fat chance, I wrote that last post in my work carpark! :roflmao:
I'll get back to you with some suggestions soon, but the best way to find out what your eyes like is to play around!
I settled on brightness 20 and a warm colour profile. Nothing else on, not even FreeSync, HDR or otherwise after giving most options a run. I think out of the box it's the least I've tuned the settings to get a satisfactory outcome.
On the other note, These Invision VESA mounts are very good quality indeed.
They are so well balanced whilst setting them up I didn't even have to fully tighten them when screwing the monitor on. The base perfectly overlaps the desk and counter balances the monitor.
So now I have the new panel on one side but shiftable to the centre, and my 4K Acer monitor to the other side also able to move into the central position for gaming.
Quote from: albert;444361Interesting bit of info for new users of this monitor. The Windows 10 display settings and the GeForce Config Panel both recognise the monitor as 60Hz by default. By setting the monitor resolution in the nvidia config to 144Hz then windows also recognises the monitor true refresh rate. Doing so also allows an nvidia card to use the FreeSync feature of the monitor.
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-freesync-display-nvidia-gpu
The monitor also has Overdrive, and MBR. Both add extra voltage to the panel to make colour appear faster, in other words refresh at the 1ms claimed.
Man, dude, thanks so much for this tip, I've just switched mine over, my monitor is freesync, if I experience anything whacky I'll report back, but cheers for this tip!
Quote from: smilodon;444363And that is a cue for a complete rundown of recommended settings for this monitor, over to you Mr C.
It's not like you have got anything much else to do during the lockdown. I'm assuming the NHS has furloughed you all?
So I have freesync on for most games (I turn it off for Overwatch where I want no input lag at all).
Enabling freesync turns off HDR, but as I have explained above I don't consider this monitor sufficient for HDR anyway, so I am not interested in it.
I stick with the default 'normal' colour profile. Warm or cool just shift the colour temperature. I don't imagine
you are using this monitor for colour-sensitive work, but of course it would require proper calibration first if you wanted to, and absolutely not with anything beyond 'normal' for its colour profile. As I think you mentioned, it's colour space coverage is pretty limited either way, as can be expected from a budget panel.
Eye strain reduction, or whatever it is called, is just a blue light filter. I have windows set to apply one at sunset via 'Night Light'. Again, this wreaks havoc with your colours, but reduces eye strain in the evenings when you're winding down and getting towards bedtime!
Brightness I've turned right down, currently it is on 25. Contrast default, black tuner I have set to -2. IPS have naff blacks and this helps to my eyes, but no doubt also crushes shadows and reduces the actual dynamic range of the panel. Probably best leaving it off if you're ok with the blacks.
Overdrive I have to +1. There is notable ghosting beyond this, I wouldn't recommend it. Leave it on 0 if you don't find the monitor at all sluggish.
Advanced contrast off. I don't know why you would use this
and the black tuner together.. you could play and see which you prefer.
Eco mode off, X-res off (the latter is essentially a sharpening filter applied to the panel... eww).
Much of this is subjective. Play around and see what you like. I would keep the OD to 0 or +1, everything else is really down to preference.
Quote from: albert;444375I settled on brightness 20 and a warm colour profile. Nothing else on, not even FreeSync, HDR or otherwise after giving most options a run. I think out of the box it's the least I've tuned the settings to get a satisfactory outcome.
On the other note, These Invision VESA mounts are very good quality indeed.
They are so well balanced whilst setting them up I didn't even have to fully tighten them when screwing the monitor on. The base perfectly overlaps the desk and counter balances the monitor.
So now I have the new panel on one side but shiftable to the centre, and my 4K Acer monitor to the other side also able to move into the central position for gaming.
I bought a double arm wall mounted job a while back for my home office, again to maximise desk space, as have two laptops and two monitors on the go during the working day. Mine looks very similar to the invision one, but nominally different manufacturer - been absolutely faultless though, so good my wife bought one for her office as well:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N5IBU9F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mine arrived and has a nice large impact crack in the top right of the screen. RMA'd to Amazon and interestingly they say they cannot replace with identical item, despite them showing up as 'in stock'.
Just my luck, it will take a couple of days to see the Amazon credit show up before I can re-spend it due to their inability to replace.
How weird.
Well keep an eye on the sales, maybe you'll get lucky and end up paying less for it!
Thanks Ben. Had a trawl through Prime deals and I didn't seem to find anything particularly interesting. I might just have to buy it again and use the credit over the rest of the year. :sad:
Replacement monitor arrived today, a day earlier than expected. Initial impressions are very good. No dead pixels spotted (yet) and no adjustment made yet, but it looks really nice. Very pleased so far.
Thanks for the original PSA Chaos! :thumbsup:
Good stuff.
Really quite decent monitors for the money these.
Sad to report that I've started an RMA process on this monitor (iiyama G-MASTER GB3461WQSU-B1).
My first one was damaged on arrival and successfully (and swiftly) got replaced by Amazon. This second one arrived undamaged, no dead pixels (that I have yet noticed), but it is suffering from what is reported to be a fairly widespread problem of it not waking up from standby, or from boot. Symptom: you wake up monitor from sleep, or cold boot, and the monitor does nothing, it just sits there with its orange power led and it never turns blue, you never get a picture. Solution, unplug the monitor, plug it back in. It happens randomly, but about once per week on average. This morning it happened again after a windows update shutdown from last night. Now this sounds like a moan, after all how hard is it to unplug and re-plug in your monitor? Well it's quite a big pain in the rear when the monitor is on the far side of a big desk and also mounted on an arm which is difficult to get behind once you have completed your cable management. So it's a hassle. Not impossible, just a big hassle.
Posting this issue in case anyone has also seen this behaviour and not realised it is their monitor causing the issues and not their gfx card.
Might try and get a refund and upgrade to something else.
Do you have to unplug and replug the power or the "signal" cable? If it's the power, easy enough to wire in a cheapy inline switch shirley? Obviously shouldn't have to but if needs must etc
If you are using DVI is there not something you can do around disabling DPMS in the monitor config? That would stop the monitor going to sleep based on the signal from the PC so you'd have to manually turn it off, but then there would be nothing required to wake it up, you'd just turn it on yourself when you wanted it?
If you're using HDMI though - can't help you, never played with it, sorry :)
That's not good. Work arounds might work but monitors should just go to sleep and wake up as required. To be honest I have never had that specific problem. I once had the same symptoms but it required a reboot of windows to fix, so I put it down to the OS not the monitor.
Quote from: smilodon;446544That's not good. Work arounds might work but monitors should just go to sleep and wake up as required. To be honest I have never had that specific problem. I once had the same symptoms but it required a reboot of windows to fix, so I put it down to the OS not the monitor.
I tend to agree with Smilo, sleep or non-wake issues, certainly the ones I have suffered needed some OS setting adjustment. I'd be surprised if you don't have similar issues with any replacement you get, or another brand.
Sorry for the ambiguity, I meant I have to unplug the power cord, and power it up again, I then see the reboot flash/post Ilyama screen and everything kicks into life, it's almost like the screen software 'hung'. Also, it's connected via DP not DVI or HDMI. There are plenty of reports online about this issue with this monitor. Apparently Ilyama have implied that it can be fixed with a software update, but I am yet to discover how they would do this.
Quote from: TeaLeaf;446561Apparently Ilyama have implied that it can be fixed with a software update, but I am yet to discover how they would do this.
I believe they have to collect it and then return it once updated. You will have to speak to support to arrange this service.
I know more or less nothing about how monitors 'speak' with PC's but could it be something specific to the connection. I use HDMI and as mentioned it happened once to me, although I put that down to Windows not the monitor (quite possibly wrongly). That being said monitors should just work without owners having to create workarounds or make compromises about how they connect things up.
Quote from: TeaLeaf;446561Sorry for the ambiguity, I meant I have to unplug the power cord, and power it up again, I then see the reboot flash/post Ilyama screen and everything kicks into life, it's almost like the screen software 'hung'. Also, it's connected via DP not DVI or HDMI. There are plenty of reports online about this issue with this monitor. Apparently Ilyama have implied that it can be fixed with a software update, but I am yet to discover how they would do this.
I read somewhere that disabling the Opening Logo on the Ilyama monitors was a good thing to do so have always had mine with that setting so the splash screen does not appear. Also I found that setting the input mode manually made wake up unpredictable, sometimes it sat with an orange light other times it worked perfectly. Auto input select works perfectly. Lastly, Windows 10 likes to change my display mode to 1 of the 2 monitors rather than extended view, occasionally requiring the display settings to be changed to extended again to get back to normal. These types of problem are common in my experience with a range of high and low value monitors over the last few years. MY 4K Acer Preditor monitor is more likely to not wake and that is conencted to the on board graphics. Although the occurances are reducing over time so it makes me think the OS is having bugs slowly removed. Windows 11 I'm sure will re-introduce all the problems again.
I don't have the exact model you have, but it's just the curved version and I think it will have the same software. I agree that unplugging power is not acceptable to resolve these issues.
One of these might make things easier: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32671886373.html
I make no guarantees of CE compliance etc - use at your own risk blah blah
Quote from: albert;446566I read somewhere that disabling the Opening Logo on the Ilyama monitors was a good thing to do so have always had mine with that setting so the splash screen does not appear.
Thanks, I have now turned this off in settings. Interestingly this monitor arrived with no manual in the box which was a bit of a surprise. I know we can go get them from the internet these days, but I still expected a hard copy too.
Quote from: albert;446566Also I found that setting the input mode manually made wake up unpredictable, sometimes it sat with an orange light other times it worked perfectly. Auto input select works perfectly.
I checked this and mine is set to Auto already.
Quote from: albert;446566Lastly, Windows 10 likes to change my display mode to 1 of the 2 monitors rather than extended view, occasionally requiring the display settings to be changed to extended again to get back to normal. These types of problem are common in my experience with a range of high and low value monitors over the last few years. MY 4K Acer Preditor monitor is more likely to not wake and that is conencted to the on board graphics. Although the occurances are reducing over time so it makes me think the OS is having bugs slowly removed. Windows 11 I'm sure will re-introduce all the problems again.
Yes, had exactly the same issues with screens going dark and not being recognised and 2 changing to 1 display. I was running two monitors (this 3440x1440 and a 1920x1080) but I'm not sure if this is part of the Ilyama problem or Windows tbh as mine were connected to the graphics card.
Quote from: A Twig;446571One of these might make things easier: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32671886373.html
I make no guarantees of CE compliance etc - use at your own risk blah blah
Thanks Twig, that is helpful but for me and my particular setup wherever I put it I would still find it awkward to get to. You kinda hope that you don't need crap like this to fix a problem that shouldn't be there in the first place!
Oh 100% agree TL - and good on you for taking it to them and not just accepting it and finding a shonky work around like wot I duz.
Quote from: TeaLeaf;446573Yes, had exactly the same issues with screens going dark and not being recognised and 2 changing to 1 display. I was running two monitors (this 3440x1440 and a 1920x1080) but I'm not sure if this is part of the Ilyama problem or Windows tbh as mine were connected to the graphics card.
The thing is I had similar experiences before the Ilyama arrived so I am assuming it's just multiple graphics drivers and windows all getting messed up. I like ot use the second monitor with the Intel On-board graphics so there's no lag in video/ youtube/ twitch playback if I'm in a game.